High Alpine Skills Course (HASC)

Who is this course for?

The NZAC's High Alpine Skills Course (HASC) is designed for enthusiastic intermediate mountaineers who are looking to learn the skills to travel safely on glaciated terrain and lead climbs on New Zealand's high alpine peaks.

Participants should be competent in all of the course outcomes from the NZAC's Intermediate Snowcraft Course and have put these skills into practice on moderate (non-glacial) peaks.

Please do not apply if you are not competent in the course outcomes from the NZAC Intermediate Snowcraft Course or do not have climbing experience.

Course Syllabus:

Preparing For The High Alpine Environment

  • Clothing/equipment
  • Trip planning resources (avalanche forecasts/weather forecasts/guidebooks)
  • Weather
  • Navigation
  • Using aircraft for access
  • Selecting appropriate objectives

Being And Moving In The Alpine Environment

  • Pitched climbing on rock and snow
  • Glacier travel
  • Snow anchors
  • Rock anchors
  • Route section in the high alpine environment
  • Snowpack observation and avalanche hazard evaluation
  • Descending technical terrain

Changing Circumstances

  • Crevasse rescue
  • Use of avalanche safety equipment including transceiver search
  • Techniques for emergency shelters (snow shelters/bothy bag) in the high alpine environment
  • Emergency procedures for the high alpine environment
COURSE OVERVIEW

Duration: 6 Days

Season: October-January

Location: Aoraki Mount Cook National Park

Course Tutors: NZMGA Climbing Guides/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Ratio: 1:4

Cost: TBC

Progression: NZAC Leading on Technical Ice Course

FITNESS

It is crucial that all participants have suitable fitness for the course. Feedback from participants shows that those with a higher level of fitness not only enjoy the courses mores, but they also have a greater capacity to learn whilst in the mountain environment. As a rough guide for fitness, you should be able to:

  • Jog at a moderate pace for 5-8kms without stopping and/or
  • Hike 300 metres uphill (1000 ft) in less than an hour, with a 12kg pack
  • The ability to carry a 7-10kg backpack up hill in both hot and cold conditions, over an 8-10 hour day is vital
PUBLICATIONS

We recommend that people do some pre-course reading. This gives a good theoretical understanding of the techniques taught on the course. Taking the time to read one of the books below is recommended, available to purchase in our web shop Products | NZAC.

  • A Climber's Guide to NZ Mountaineering
  • Alpine Guides Technical Manual
GEAR LIST

Please ensure the gear is modern and fit for purpose as there will not be time to remedy any gear issues prior to flying in. Some NZAC Sections hire mountaineering equipment. It is the individual participants responsibility to hire and return the kit.

Please be careful purchasing any climbing or mountaineering equipment online. The NZAC recommends kit is purchased from a reputable outdoor retailer. This ensures your kit meets international standards and is not fraudulent. See https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/is-your-equipment-really-certified/ for more information.

ITEMSPECIFICATIONNUMBER
Rope60m dry treated lightweight single rope1
Rock gear: cams#0.5-33-4
Rock gear: wiresAssorted sizes6-8
QuickdrawsExtendable (made from a 60cm sling)4
Tape sling or cordelette17mm tape or 6mm cord x 6m1 per pair
V-thread (abalokov) hookBought preferred, homemade accepted1
CookerPlus fuel for 5 days for 2 people1
PotFor cooking1
HarnessWith adjustable leg-loops1
HelmetRated for mountaineering/climbing1
PackAlpine 55-70l (it may be possible to fly an additional smaller pack 30-40l however this is at the guides discretion. Please ensure everything fits inside the 55-70l pack)1
Sleeping bagSuitable for a night bivvying1
Locking carabinersNot magnet lock4
Snaplink carabiners 4
Belay deviceBlack Diamond ATC or similar1
Long slings2 x 120cm2
Prussik loops (6mm)Long (from foot to chest)1
 Short (from belly-button to eyes)2
Pack leash x 60cmPrussik cord (6mm x 120cm)1
Ice screws16-22cm with fold out handle2
Progress capture pulleye.g Petzel Microtraxion recommended1
Ice axe (+ leash optional)50-75cm walking axe (not a technical ice climbing tool)1
Ice hammer (+ leash optional)50cm approx1
CramponsSteel crampons, 12 points, must fit boots well & have anti-ball plates1
Mountaineering bootsGood quality, full shanked, insulated, fit crampons well1 pair
Snow gaitersSnug, clean profile on inside of foot/leg1 pair
Rock shoesThese are compulsory however may not be used on all courses1 pair
SnowstakeWith a mid-clip cable/sling or 'T' section preferred1
HeadtorchPlus spare batteries1
Water bottleIf you are bringing a bladder bring a back-up1
Compass 1
MapsBarron Saddle, Plateau, Tasman Saddle (can be printed from topomaps.co.nz1
Transceiver3-antennae digital modern (trip dependent)1
ShovelWith telescopic handle (trip dependent)1
Probe240cm+ (trip dependent)1
Personal first aid kitIncluding necessary or emergency personal medication1
Toiletries & poo potIncluding toilet paper1
Bivvy bagOr lightweight tent (2-person shared ok). Optional1
Sleeping matFoam or inflatable. Optional1
Walking polesOptional1
Personal Locator BeaconOptional1
CLOTHINGIt is important participants are sensible about how much clothing and personal items they intend to carry in order to keep the packs at a reasonable weight. But then again, you don't want to be cold. An alpine-spec shell system and a down or synthetic jacket or heavy weight fleece for bivvying is essential. 
Warm beanie 1
Glacier glassesAS/NZS cat 3 minimum, 4 preferable and a pair of backup sunglasses or ski googles1
Neck gaitere.g Buff1
Sun defencePeaked sun hat, sunscreen1
Alpine shell jacketGoreTex or equivalent. Good quality1
Alpine over trousersGoreTex or equivalent, leg zips. Good quality1
Gloves lightweightPolyprop or merino1 pair
Gloves insulated waterproof 1 pair
Insulated jacketDown/synthetic (preferred) or extra heavy fleece1
Mid-layer jacketFleece or softshell1
Thermal pantsPolyprop or merino1 pair
Thermal topsPolyprop or merino1-2
Lightweight glacier shirt/long sleeve hooded technical topTo keep the sun off1
Socks, underwearOptional foot warmers2 sets
Hut shoesOptional1 pair
Face coveringFabric reusable face covering that covers mouth and nose1