High Alpine Skills Course (HASC)
Who is this course for?
The NZAC's High Alpine Skills Course (HASC) is designed for enthusiastic intermediate mountaineers who are looking to learn the skills to travel safely on glaciated terrain and lead climbs on New Zealand's high alpine peaks.
Participants should be competent in all of the course outcomes from the NZAC's Intermediate Snowcraft Course and have put these skills into practice on moderate (non-glacial) peaks.
Please do not apply if you are not competent in the course outcomes from the NZAC Intermediate Snowcraft Course or do not have climbing experience.
Course Syllabus:
Preparing For The High Alpine Environment
- Clothing/equipment
- Trip planning resources (avalanche forecasts/weather forecasts/guidebooks)
- Weather
- Navigation
- Using aircraft for access
- Selecting appropriate objectives
Being And Moving In The Alpine Environment
- Pitched climbing on rock and snow
- Glacier travel
- Snow anchors
- Rock anchors
- Route section in the high alpine environment
- Snowpack observation and avalanche hazard evaluation
- Descending technical terrain
Changing Circumstances
- Crevasse rescue
- Use of avalanche safety equipment including transceiver search
- Techniques for emergency shelters (snow shelters/bothy bag) in the high alpine environment
- Emergency procedures for the high alpine environment
COURSE OVERVIEW
Duration: 6 Days
Season: October-January
Location: Aoraki Mount Cook National Park
Course Tutors: NZMGA Climbing Guides/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Ratio: 1:4
Cost: TBC
Progression: NZAC Leading on Technical Ice Course
FITNESS
It is crucial that all participants have suitable fitness for the course. Feedback from participants shows that those with a higher level of fitness not only enjoy the courses mores, but they also have a greater capacity to learn whilst in the mountain environment. As a rough guide for fitness, you should be able to:
- Jog at a moderate pace for 5-8kms without stopping and/or
- Hike 300 metres uphill (1000 ft) in less than an hour, with a 12kg pack
- The ability to carry a 7-10kg backpack up hill in both hot and cold conditions, over an 8-10 hour day is vital
PUBLICATIONS
We recommend that people do some pre-course reading. This gives a good theoretical understanding of the techniques taught on the course. Taking the time to read one of the books below is recommended, available to purchase in our web shop Products | NZAC.
- A Climber's Guide to NZ Mountaineering
- Alpine Guides Technical Manual
GEAR LIST
Please ensure the gear is modern and fit for purpose as there will not be time to remedy any gear issues prior to flying in. Some NZAC Sections hire mountaineering equipment. It is the individual participants responsibility to hire and return the kit.
Please be careful purchasing any climbing or mountaineering equipment online. The NZAC recommends kit is purchased from a reputable outdoor retailer. This ensures your kit meets international standards and is not fraudulent. See https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/is-your-equipment-really-certified/ for more information.
| ITEM | SPECIFICATION | NUMBER |
| Rope | 60m dry treated lightweight single rope | 1 |
| Rock gear: cams | #0.5-3 | 3-4 |
| Rock gear: wires | Assorted sizes | 6-8 |
| Quickdraws | Extendable (made from a 60cm sling) | 4 |
| Tape sling or cordelette | 17mm tape or 6mm cord x 6m | 1 per pair |
| V-thread (abalokov) hook | Bought preferred, homemade accepted | 1 |
| Cooker | Plus fuel for 5 days for 2 people | 1 |
| Pot | For cooking | 1 |
| Harness | With adjustable leg-loops | 1 |
| Helmet | Rated for mountaineering/climbing | 1 |
| Pack | Alpine 55-70l (it may be possible to fly an additional smaller pack 30-40l however this is at the guides discretion. Please ensure everything fits inside the 55-70l pack) | 1 |
| Sleeping bag | Suitable for a night bivvying | 1 |
| Locking carabiners | Not magnet lock | 4 |
| Snaplink carabiners | 4 | |
| Belay device | Black Diamond ATC or similar | 1 |
| Long slings | 2 x 120cm | 2 |
| Prussik loops (6mm) | Long (from foot to chest) | 1 |
| Short (from belly-button to eyes) | 2 | |
| Pack leash x 60cm | Prussik cord (6mm x 120cm) | 1 |
| Ice screws | 16-22cm with fold out handle | 2 |
| Progress capture pulley | e.g Petzel Microtraxion recommended | 1 |
| Ice axe (+ leash optional) | 50-75cm walking axe (not a technical ice climbing tool) | 1 |
| Ice hammer (+ leash optional) | 50cm approx | 1 |
| Crampons | Steel crampons, 12 points, must fit boots well & have anti-ball plates | 1 |
| Mountaineering boots | Good quality, full shanked, insulated, fit crampons well | 1 pair |
| Snow gaiters | Snug, clean profile on inside of foot/leg | 1 pair |
| Rock shoes | These are compulsory however may not be used on all courses | 1 pair |
| Snowstake | With a mid-clip cable/sling or 'T' section preferred | 1 |
| Headtorch | Plus spare batteries | 1 |
| Water bottle | If you are bringing a bladder bring a back-up | 1 |
| Compass | 1 | |
| Maps | Barron Saddle, Plateau, Tasman Saddle (can be printed from topomaps.co.nz | 1 |
| Transceiver | 3-antennae digital modern (trip dependent) | 1 |
| Shovel | With telescopic handle (trip dependent) | 1 |
| Probe | 240cm+ (trip dependent) | 1 |
| Personal first aid kit | Including necessary or emergency personal medication | 1 |
| Toiletries & poo pot | Including toilet paper | 1 |
| Bivvy bag | Or lightweight tent (2-person shared ok). Optional | 1 |
| Sleeping mat | Foam or inflatable. Optional | 1 |
| Walking poles | Optional | 1 |
| Personal Locator Beacon | Optional | 1 |
| CLOTHING | It is important participants are sensible about how much clothing and personal items they intend to carry in order to keep the packs at a reasonable weight. But then again, you don't want to be cold. An alpine-spec shell system and a down or synthetic jacket or heavy weight fleece for bivvying is essential. | |
| Warm beanie | 1 | |
| Glacier glasses | AS/NZS cat 3 minimum, 4 preferable and a pair of backup sunglasses or ski googles | 1 |
| Neck gaiter | e.g Buff | 1 |
| Sun defence | Peaked sun hat, sunscreen | 1 |
| Alpine shell jacket | GoreTex or equivalent. Good quality | 1 |
| Alpine over trousers | GoreTex or equivalent, leg zips. Good quality | 1 |
| Gloves lightweight | Polyprop or merino | 1 pair |
| Gloves insulated waterproof | 1 pair | |
| Insulated jacket | Down/synthetic (preferred) or extra heavy fleece | 1 |
| Mid-layer jacket | Fleece or softshell | 1 |
| Thermal pants | Polyprop or merino | 1 pair |
| Thermal tops | Polyprop or merino | 1-2 |
| Lightweight glacier shirt/long sleeve hooded technical top | To keep the sun off | 1 |
| Socks, underwear | Optional foot warmers | 2 sets |
| Hut shoes | Optional | 1 pair |
| Face covering | Fabric reusable face covering that covers mouth and nose | 1 |