Multi-Pitch Rock Course
Who is this course for?
The NZAC's Multi Pitch Rock Course (MPRC) is designed for enthusiastic intermediate rock climbers who are looking to learn the skills to safely and efficiently lead climbs on long multi pitch routes.
Please do not apply if you are not competent lead climbing or belaying lead climbers or do not have climbing experience.
COURSE SYLLABUS
Preparing For Multi Pitch Climbs
- Clothing/equipment
- Trip planning resources (weather forecasts/guidebooks)
- Weather
- Selecting appropriate objectives
Moving Efficiently On Long Routes
- Leading long pitches
- Rope management - single and double ropes
- Efficient anchors
- Belay management and options
- Swapping leadds
- Route section
- Descending
Self Rescue
- Assisting a second up a crux
- Lowering from guide mode
- Descending with an injured climber
- Emergency procedures
ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation is provided as part of the course fees, including for the night prior to the course start date, at NZAC Unwin Lodge in Aoraki Mt Cook Village. You will need to bring a sleeping bag for the lodge.
INSTRUCTION
The course will be run on a 1:4 Instructor to participant ratio. The courses are delivered by fully qualified and experienced NZMGA Climbing Guides or NZOIA Rock 2 Instructors. All participants must agree to follow the Instructor/Guides instructions and directions.
FITNESS
All participants should have suitable fitness for the course.
FOOD
Participants organise their own food. Please note there is no supermarket in Aoraki Mt Cook Village.
START TIME
Start time will be at 8am on the first day of course. The instructor will do an equipment check and briefing so please make sure that all gear is readily accessible and you are fed and ready to go. If you intend to stay at Unwin on the night after the course finishes, please notify the hut warden.
COURSE FEES
The course fees are released when the course goes live. Full payment is required upon booking and your place is not confirmed until this is received. All participants must be NZAC members at the time the course starts.
No refunds will be available should you cancel within 60 days of the course start. Any refunds outside of this are at the discretion of the NZAC National Office and will depend on whether a replacement can be found.
The course fee includes accommodation at Unwin Lodge the night before the course start date, accommodation during the course and instruction. It does not cover food. It is the participants responsibility to bring and arrange this.
The NZAC tries to minimize the impact of bad weather on courses. At times the best option may be to relocate the course. If this is the case the instructor in charge will liaise with all course participants.
No refunds are due for leaving the trip for medical or fitness reasons. Exceptional circumstances may be considered and are at the discretion of the NZAC.
INSURANCE
We recommend you take out travel insurance and/or personal insurance as part of your preparation for participating on NZAC Instruction courses. NZAC offers some insurance options for both New Zealand and Australian residents available on the NZAC website that include cover for having to pull out of a course at short notice.
EMERGENCY SITUATIONS AND RISK DISCLOSURE
The Course Instructor will have Emergency Management Procedures in place and a Satellite phone to immediately contact rescue services in the case of an accident or emergency.
The natural environment and climbing activities can involve risks that may result in injury or death. While recognising that the course organisers and instructors are doing their best to manage these risks, and agreeing to accept their direction whenever required, you must accept personal responsibility for your own actions and safety. You must also accept to follow the instructions of the Course Leader and other instructors at all times.
All participants on the Course are expected to be as honest and transparent as possible about their experience and fitness as part of their application. If a participant’s lack of fitness/ability severely affects the running of the course, the participant(s) may be asked to not participate in certain activities. The instructor is the final arbiter in these decisions.
GEAR LIST
| ITEM | SPECIFICATION | NUMBER |
| Harness | 1 | |
| Helmet | Rated for climbing | 1 |
| Rock shoes | Comfortable for climbing several pitches | 1 pair |
| Quickdraws | 6 x standard and 2 x extendable (60cm sling) | 8 |
| Rope | 60m single rope | 1 |
| Locking carabiners | 2 x 'Pear' shaped, 3 x 'D' | 4 |
| Snaplink carabiners | 2 | |
| Belay device | ATC Guide, Petzl reverso or similar device with guide mode | 1 |
| Tape slings | 2 x 120cm sewn slings | 2 |
| Prussik loops (6mm) | Long (from foot to chest) | 1 |
| Short (from belly-button to eyes) | 2 | |
| Chalk bag | 1 | |
| Pack | Suitable for getting your kit to the crag | 1 |
| Water bottle | 1 | |
| Personal first aid kit | Including necessary or emergency personal medication | 1 |
| Warm beanie | 1 | |
| Sun defence | Peaked sun hat, sunscreen | 1 |
| Shell jacket | Wind and waterproof | 1 |
| Insulated jacket | Down/synthetic or extra heavy fleece | 1 |
| Mid-layer jacket | Fleece or softshell | 1 |
| Thermal top | Polyprop or merino | 1 |