Inaugural Olympic Gold Medallist Finally Wins First World Cup
Sport Climbing & Bouldering
Leo Bøe (Norway, age 26) made the first ascent of Verdens Ende (The Edge of the World, 9a+/36) at Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger on 11 July—one of the longest single-pitch climbs ever completed at this grade. The 130-metre route begins with the existing bolted line Brunhilde low start (9a/35) for the first 60 metres, then continues for a further 70 metres on traditional gear, as additional bolts are prohibited in the upper cave. Using an 80-metre rope that was still insufficient to avoid crippling drag, Bøe pulled the rope through three times during the ascent, which took over an hour. He has now climbed 18 routes graded 9a or harder. The route is roughly the same length as Séb Bouin's Nordic Marathon, also in Hanshelleren. — 8a.nu / Vertical-Life · Gripped
James Pearson (UK, age 40) completed two striking ascents at Rocklands, South Africa this week. He sent The Finnish Line (8C/V15), one of the world's most aesthetic boulder problems, then made the first highball ascent of Legacy—Africa's first 9a/35 sport route, first climbed by Giuliano Cameroni in 2019. Pearson climbed Legacy without a rope, proposing a highball grade of around 8B+/V14. Best known as a trad climber with one of the most committing tick lists in the UK, Pearson has almost entirely stopped structured training and now climbs outside when he feels like it. Earlier repeats of Legacy on a rope by Paul Robinson and Paige Claassen had noted that the line felt more like a boulder problem than a sport route; Pearson has taken that observation to its logical conclusion. — 8a.nu / Vertical-Life
Brothers Benn Wheeler and Noah Wheeler (USA) sent Gateway (8C/V15) at Mount Blue Sky, Colorado on 9 July. Noah, who has three V17/9A ascents to his name, went first; Benn, with eight 8B+ problems but no prior 8C, followed shortly after. — 8a.nu / Vertical-Life
Competition Climbing
At the World Climbing Series in Chamonix, France (10–12 July), Alberto Ginés López (Spain) claimed his first-ever World Cup gold medal in Lead—ending what he described as a seven-year wait—with Luka Potocar (Slovenia) taking silver and Putra Tri Ramadani (Indonesia) bronze. Gines-Lopez won the first climbing gold medal for men in Tokyo, becoming Spain's youngest ever gold medallist. In the women's event, Annie Sanders (USA, age 18) won her third Lead gold of the 2026 season, ahead of Aleksandra Totkova (Bulgaria) and Chaehyun Seo (South Korea). Sanders has now reached the podium in seven of the eight Lead or Boulder rounds held so far in 2026. — World Climbing · 8a.nu / Vertical-Life
Access & Industry
Wildfires that broke out on 12 July have destroyed more than 2,050 hectares of the Forest of Fontainebleau, the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve approximately 70 km south-east of Paris that is home to some of the world's most iconic bouldering. The forest has been closed to all visitors until further notice. Around 850 firefighters supported by Canadair water-bombing aircraft were deployed; French police arrested two people on suspicion of arson. A second fire ignited the following day. The closure affects major bouldering areas including Trois Pignons, Cuvier, and Franchard, with no reopening date given as of 14 July. — Gripped · PlanetMountain