Trad Climbing Skills Course

Who is this course for?

The NZAC Leading on Trad Rock course is designed for NZAC Sport Climbers (or equivalent skill set) who are looking to learn the skills to lead climb traditionally protected rock climbs.

COURSE SYLLABUS

Preparing For A Trad Climb

  • Equipment
  • Planning
  • Selecting appropriate climbs

Belaying Trad Climbs

  • Preparing the rope, flaked and knotted
  • Communication and companion checks
  • Spotting climber to the first pro when appropriate
  • Lead belaying techniques with tubular devices (such as ATC) and active and passive Assisted Brake Devices (such as Grigri, smart, pilot):
    • Stance
    • Soft and hard catches
    • Amount of slack rope in system to prevent ground falls
    • Giving rope quickly when required
  • Lowering a leader who is cleaning the route

Leading Trad Climbs

  • Placing bomber trad gear: Wire placement, cam placement, hex placement, threads and bollards
  • Finding good stances to place gear; first piece multi directional to prevent stripping
  • Managing rope drag: Extending pro; how to use half ropes for wandering routes
  • Mindset: No fall zones; managing fear
  • Falling: Down climb for safer fall when required; falling with a dynamic body position
COURSE OUTCOMES*

Preparing For A Trad Climb

  • The knowledge to select appropriate equipment
  • An ability to plan trips and select routes according to their grade and guidebook description

Belaying Trad Climbs

  • The knowledge to prepare for a trad belay correctly
  • The ability to belay a trad leader effectively with a variety of devices

Leading Trad Climbs

  • The skills to climb trad climbs - well balanced, efficiently and in control
  • An understanding of building quality anchors (nuts, cams, rock bollard) anchors
  • The skills to efficiently manage the rope on single pitch terrain
  • The ability to descend routes using appropriate techniques (retrievable abseils, down climbing, lowering)

Someone who has these skills and those listed in the Multi Pitch Rock Course is considered a NZAC Advanced Rock Climber and is likely to have the skills and ability to climb sport, trad and multi pitch climbs.

*Course Outcomes may vary dependent on participant ability and course conditions. This is a guideline, individuals must assess their own ability after a course.

COURSE OVERVIEW

Duration: 2 days

Season: November-April

Location: Various crags

Course Tutors: NZOIA Rock Level 2 Instructors, NZMGA Climbing Guides

Ratio: 1:6

Cost: Set by Sections

Progression: Ongoing personal development and trips. NZAC Multi pitch climbing and Rock Rescue courses.